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 N8131 Assembly and installation 
 
	Connecting the N8101 & N8101B: 
 
		
		
		Using the N8101 is very straightforward. Its tiny size will allow it to 
		be placed nearly anywhere. 
	Solder points #1 and #2 are the power 
	input connections. Power input to the N8101 can be up to 16-volts and can be 
		up to 25-volts for the N8101B, and can 
	be either analog DC, DCC. AC voltage can also be used but 
	is limited to the RMS equivalent value. Solder point #3 is 
	 –DC output (or ground), and solder point #4 is +DC output. See figure 1. 
	
 Figure 1 Also included on the board is solder point #5. This is an optional connection point provided for +DC resisted voltage output to a polarity sensitive device such as an LED. Figure 2 below shows the back side of the board. 
 Figure 2  Shown 
	are the two solder pads provided for either an 1/8-watt or 1/4-watt 
	surface-mount type resistor. When a resistor is installed, the circuit 
	through to solder point #5 is completed so the resistor is in series with 
	the +DC output #5. Connecting a device such as an LED between #5 and #3 will 
	provide power for the LED. 
	
	Note: For proper LED operation, resistor 
	selection must be calculated based on maximum expected input and LED 
	voltage. If 
	you need help 
	to determine proper 
	resistance, please go here.
	 When connecting an LED to the module, proper polarity must be observed. LEDs are “polarity sensitive” and will not function if connected backwards. Connect the LED cathode (the – connection) to point #3 on the module and connect the LED anode (the +) to solder point #5.  Important 
	note: 
	
	
	A low-wattage iron with a pointed tip should be used for connection of 
	wires. Too much heat or solder can easily damage the wires, or the module 
	and void its warranty. 
	
	  
	
	
	 Also, all  wires should be 
	pre-tinned before soldering them to the N8101. This will make connection 
	quick and easy and ensure excessive heat is not applied to any solder 
	points. 
	
	
	Flicker control: 
	
	
	Included in this package are tantalum polarized capacitors. 
	Tantalum capacitors are superior to other polarized capacitors because they 
	have a larger storage capacity for their size and do not “age” like other, 
	electrolytic polarized capacitors do. In modeling where small scale factors 
	dictate available space, these little jewels can be very useful for storing 
	an electrical charge and releasing it when input power is momentarily 
	interrupted. In model railroading, dirty spots on the track are a common 
	source for tiny power interruptions. 
	
	
	Polarized capacitors have a plus DC connection, and a minus DC connection. 
	By wiring them in parallel (all pluses connected together, & all minuses 
	connected together), their storage capacities (uf, or microfarads) are added 
	together.  
	
	
	NEVER 
	wire them in series with each other (end to end).  
	
	
	Because of their “boxy” shape and tiny size, they can be stacked 
	strategically to utilize the least amount of space possible. These 
	capacitors have a stripe and an angle at one end that identifies the plus 
	(+) DC connection. Figure 3 below shows an example of 6 capacitors stacked 
	and soldered in parallel. You can use the #26 solid wire in this package for 
	that purpose. 
	
	
	 
		 
		Putting it all together: 
		
		Since the capacitors are DC devices, they cannot 
		properly function with any other 
		type of input voltage. As a result, they 
		must be connected 
		“behind” the N8101/B DC Power Source module at 
		the output solder points 
		3 & 
		4. Input from 
		the track pickups connect to solder point 
		1 
		& 
		2. 
		See figure 1 on the 
		front of this instruction 
		for more detail. 
		
		
		We recommend using the two 4” segments of #32 black super-flex wire for 
		connections to points 1 & 2, because this wire is designed for repeated 
		flexing and can easily withstand the rotation of trucks on rolling stock 
		as they negotiate curved track. This flexing is what this wire is 
		designed for. 
		
		
		 The red and black #32 hook-up wire can be used to connect the N8101/B 
		output solder points 
		3 & 4 
		to the capacitor “bank” connections, then on to whatever device(s) you 
		will be providing power to. Simply just cut these wires into whatever 
		lengths work for your project and strip and tin their ends before 
		attaching them to the N8101/B or the capacitor bank. Figure 4 below shows 
		a typical wiring diagram for connection of one of our Lighting Effects 
		Simulators.  
 
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