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              HO Pre-assembled DropLight Installation

Installation of our HO pre-asembled DropLight Fixtures is very straightforward and is covered below in four easy to understand steps. However... because of the delicate nature of this product, extra care must be taken with handling during the installlation process.

1. Structure & Light Fixture preparation: Typically, a DropLight light fixture is installed to hang down from the overhead ceiling area inside a building structure. A train shed, roundhouse, automotive workshop or manufacturing facility are clasic examples.

   For light fixture mounting, carefully drill a mounting hole using #76 (.020”) drill bit. If the fixture is to be positioned thru an overhead wooden beam, the wold may tend to "shrink back" a bit after drilling making it difficult to slide the tubing thru the hole and possibly damaging or kinking the tiny #38 wires. In this case try redrilling the mounting hole with a larger (#75 or #74) drill. Carefully slide the wires and tubing up through the mounting hole and secure the tubing in position with a small amount of CA or epoxy. Allow sufficient time for the bonding to cure before routing wiring.

2. Painting the DropLight fixture: The DropLight can be easily brush painted with either Acrylic or solvent based modeling paint. Make sure the color chosen is properly thinned and using a small brush paint the exterior surface of the lampshade and tubing if desired.  In many commercial installations the exterior (top) surface of the lampshade was painted a dark forest green and the tubing was left unpainted to look like typical metal conduit. However, the tubing and lampshade can be painted any color that fits the modeler's particular application. Fore best results DO NOT paint the inside of the lampshade. This will ensure the best light reflection possible.

3. Powering the DropLight: Our DropLights come in three versions: With a white LED, a yellow-white LED (very bright) and an incandescent LED.The ND015-1 (white LED) and the ND015-3 (incandescent LED) versions will provide a realistic brightness level at full (20ma) power. However, some applications may require a lower brightness output. In those situations using a larger resistor value (larger value in Ohms) will reduce the current to the LED and lower its brightness level. You should never power these LEDs at higher current levels than 20ma (milliAmps) or shortened life of the LED will occur.

   For 12-volt operation: using a 453-ohm 1/4 Watt resistor will provide 20ma (full brightness). This resistor (plus a spare) are included in the package.

   For the ND015-2 (yellow-white LED version) in this DropLightt, this LED is extremely bright at full (20ma) power. Certain situations may require full brightness, but in most applications a much lower brightness level will look more realistic. We have found that with this high-efficiency LED a device current of 5-6 ma provides excellent brightness at a realistic level for a over-the door gooseneck light. For this reduced brightness use a 1.5K-ohm (1500-ohm), 1/8-Watt or larger (wattage) resistor for 12-volt operation. A 453-ohm resistor (plus a spare) and a 1.5K-ohm resistor (plus a spare) are included in the package of the ND015-2

   If you will be using a different voltage power supply or plan to connect several gooseneck lights in series, then a different resistor value will be needed. We have easy-to-use resistor calculators than can be found HERE.

   The LEDs in all three versions of the DropLight are 3.3-volt 20ma LEDs.

   A resistor must always be connected in series with one of the LED wires.

   The RED LED wire is for + (plus) DC voltage. The GREEN wire is for—DC..